Brillat Savarin, French philosopher, famous for his ‘Physiologie du goût’ written in 1825 was the first food and wine matcher, advising Graves wine with Poulard de Bresse and old Sauternes with oysters, insisting on changing wines with every course. What a wise man.
He also has a delicious cheese named after him. Brillat Savarin is a fresh, creamy cows milk cheese from Normandy and Burgundy. Our local ‘fromager’ Pierre Rollet Gerard, in the covered market in Libourne, prepares this cheese by slicing it in the middle and stuffing it with truffles. It is so delicious that just this one cheese suffices on the cheese board – no need for a selection. It is also perfect match with an older Pomerol – well known for the development of truffle aromas as they age.
I was not that surprised then to find the match of Brillat Savarin and truffles on a menu recently – what did surprise me however was that is was suggested as a dessert. A Brillat Savarin cheesecake served with a truffle ice-cream. This was at the excellent ‘Restaurant 23’ in Leamington Spa. Chef Peter Knibb, came back to his home town in 2006 after working with various Michelin star chefs all over Europe and in February this year moved to a grade II listed Victorian building in a leafy avenue in the centre of town. It was delicious, may I suggest an old Sauternes as a match?
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